Intermittent Electrical Issues

[06mistreSS]

I'm having a very intermittent electrical problem. It started with just the radio being effected (turning off and on by itself) but has developed into more (described below) and can be more frequent.

Summary of the Problem -
The radio and instrument cluster flash on and off which can happen at random or be tripped when using features like turn signal, brakes, windows, rear defrost, etc. Warning messages and lights that flash on the cluster vary between StabiliLink, security, traction control, power steering, etc. - when the power steering warning comes up (not as often as the other warnings) the car actually loses power steering for a brief second and and jerks the steering wheel if turned.

Additionally, any or all of the following can develop if the above is let go for a while without attention - (1) When the car is shut off, the radio will cycle off-and-on once OR the car completely "dies". All electronics, including the radio, shut off the instant the key is removed from the ignition and then the car will sometimes not lock remotely with the fob - like it falls into some "dead" state. (2) The car will not lock or unlock remotely with no response at all from any button on the fob. (3) The car will not start plus no response when turning the key to the "accessories" and "on" positions - as if the battery is completely dead. Key is then stuck in the ignition. If given a few minutes, a noise from within the dashboard starts and the cluster needles shake slightly, which continues for a few minutes then, lights, radio and all come on and the car can be started normally, like nothing was ever wrong. In this situation, a 2-5 minute wait is common to get any response but rare cases I've had to wait well past that, up to 25 minutes. (4) There's a hesitant start - delayed response of 1-2 seconds when turning the key to start the car.

Timeline -
Feb 2013 - Problem first appears (to myself) - only radio for a while but eventually includes the instrument cluster as described above.
Mar. 12, 2013 - 1st time into dealership; dealership cannot duplicate problem.
Nov. 10, 2013 - 2nd time into dealership; problem active upon arrival so dealership sees problem first hand - disconnects powers and grounds, cleans and reinstalls, resolves problem.
Jan. 12, 2014 - Problem starts again and gradually increases frequency and severity within 2 weeks.
Jan. 26, 2014 – 3rd time into dealership; again problem active upon arrival, dealership narrows problem down to battery cable with higher than normal mill volt drop causing concern - replaces cable #13291347, resolves problem.
Apr. 13, 2014 - Problem starts again and within 3 days becomes very frequent, up to every time the car is driven.

 

[70AARCUDA]

Believe it or not, but there's a GM TSB on that issue, PI0758A, which entails geting the ECM reprogrammed.

 

[06mistreSS]

Oh wow so at least there's something to that. Easy enough but I can imagine it's probably not cheap to get that reprogrammed?

Thanks CUDA.

 

[70AARCUDA]

Oh wow so at least there's something to that. Easy enough but I can imagine it's probably not cheap to get that reprogrammed?

...should be covered under the GM bumper-to-bumper.

 

[06mistreSS]

...should be covered under the GM bumper-to-bumper.

Yes I am covered under that right now so when I get some time I'll have to take it to the dealership.

 

[06mistreSS]

I have yet to take the car in for this because I have not had the time to do so. Recently with this issue, I am also starting to get a "service StabiliTrac" and, more recently, a "service power steering" warning message and corresponding warning light when the radio cuts out. Again, not all the time, just once and a while. Seems like when I have the issue and turn the car off and restart it, the car resets itself and the issue will go away.

 

[06mistreSS]

I took the car to the dealership the other day hoping for a resolution to the problem. The dealership had someone drive the car around for a bit to see if it would do what I told them. Well, at that time, the car did not act up for them, or throw any codes, thus they could not figure out what is wrong. However, we discussed and came to an agreement that when the car acts up again, and I'm in the area, I will stop into the dealership, leave the car running, and they will look at it then as it is acting up.

 

[70AARCUDA]

Intermittant problems are a b!tch to troubleshoot.

 

[06mistreSS]

After a pretty long period with no real problems with this, the issue is starting to become more frequent again as of the past few weeks and especially the past few days.

So this morning I go out to leave and (a) the car will not unlock with the fob; I have to manually insert the key into the door lock to unlock it, and (b) I go to start the car and get absolutely nothing; no response at all as if the car is completely dead and I cannot turn the ignition back to off to remove the key. I sit there for about 5 minutes with the key at the on position. I start hearing something working, somewhere in the area down behind the dash, and I can see the speedometer and tachometer needles shaking slightly; this goes on for about another minute. Finally, lights, radio and all come on and I can start the car normally.

This same scenario, when starting, has happened a few previous times as well but I've never had to wait as long as 5 minutes.

Oh electrical issues.

 

[06mistreSS]

Also, I can say this issue does seem to be related to colder temperatures (even though I can't say that for sure) as it didn't really act up during the summer.

 

[06mistreSS]

Here's a few videos I found of the issues I'm experiencing.

The radio: 2012 chevy cruze radio problem. - YouTube

The radio/instrument cluster: 2012 Chevy Cruze Issues - YouTube

 

[06mistreSS]

UPDATE

I recently had the car into the dealership to address this issue and it seems to have finally been resolved, as I have not had the issue reappear since. I was able to drive it to the dealership one morning when it started acting up and, when I arrived, both a shop worker and technician saw the issue while it was happening. The car was left running during the process so the issue would be present.

Upon pick-up, I was told that there was an electrical terminal box that, when the technician applied pressure to, appeared to resolve the issue as he could not duplicate it again afterward. I was also told the technician referenced a GM bulletin online that explained a scenario somewhat similar to the issue I was experiencing. The technician stated there was a possible loose or high resistance in the grounds. All engine and frame ground contacts, as well as power connections, were cleaned and reinstalled. Car was test driven afterward with no issues.

This time, the car was out of warranty for this issue. However, the service department agreed that I should not have to pay because I had the car in previously for the same issue (while it was covered under warranty) and they were unable to resolve it at that time.

 

[70AARCUDA]

Great news! By any chance did the dealership list the GM Service Bulletin that they used on your receipt? It would be very helpful to know if it was an old or new Service Bulletin.

 

[06mistreSS]

Great news! By any chance did the dealership list the GM Service Bulletin that they used on your receipt? It would be very helpful to know if it was an old or new Service Bulletin.

I didn't see anything resembling a service bulletin name/number listed on the receipt but it's possibly something I can check back on.

 

[silver13ltzrs]

Mine got so bad a few weeks back that the radio shut off, came on, shut off, then came on but the screen was black and I couldn't change the station, volume, etc. The lights were flickering on the dash, visor mirrors, and headlights. I checked the alternator and didn't find anything. In my case it must be the fuse box. I found a few fuses not fully seated and pushed them down. It was fine after that, so I took duct tape and pushed it against all the small fuses, then pulled it tight across the large fuses and so far so good.

I did see another thread where someone said the fuse box was changed out, but they still had issues.... so I'm thinking the fuses for some reason become loose after driving a while.

 

[06mistreSS]

Mine got so bad a few weeks back that the radio shut off, came on, shut off, then came on but the screen was black and I couldn't change the station, volume, etc. The lights were flickering on the dash, visor mirrors, and headlights. I checked the alternator and didn't find anything. In my case it must be the fuse box. I found a few fuses not fully seated and pushed them down. It was fine after that, so I took duct tape and pushed it against all the small fuses, then pulled it tight across the large fuses and so far so good.

I did see another thread where someone said the fuse box was changed out, but they still had issues.... so I'm thinking the fuses for some reason become loose after driving a while.

Yeah it sounds like you had a slightly different issue but still an annoying one.

 

[06mistreSS]

Unfortunately I have to report back that this problem has returned once again. I was sitting in very heavy evening rush hour traffic last week (lots of time on the brake) and I guess that tripped it once again. Since then, it has happened a few times but not as frequent (yet) or severe as it had become before it was into the dealership (and supposedly resolved) last time. Seems to happen when I'm on the brakes near stopped (<5 mph) or at a stop.

More than likely looks like I'll be back to the dealership a third time for this problem.

 

[06mistreSS]

So the car went back into the dealership the other day.

From what I was told, the technician was in contact with a part supplier about the issue and walked the tech through some areas to inspect. He supposedly narrowed the problem down to a power cable with a likely break/fray in the line somewhere so they're replacing the cable in question.

 

[06mistreSS]

Alright, so I picked up the car today.

Problem was verified by technician and a diagnosis system check found codes #C0800 03, #C0800 07, #B1517 5A, #B101D 37. Both the battery and alternator were tested and checked good. All module circuits were tested and checked good. Technician phoned an OEM part supplier (I believe supplier) and was told to check voltage drops on all grounds and positive cables. All tested and checked good but the cable to the starter and alternator had 270 mill volt drop; spec per supplier is 200 mill volt drop. Concern placed on this specific cable.

That being said, the part in question that was replaced was #13291347 battery cable (#8 below). Starter, alternator and engine grounds were also replaced as all came in one box. Codes were cleared and repair verified.

 

[70AARCUDA]

Sounds like a last-ditch act of "shot-gun" replacement to me, ie: *do* something & pray it helps the problem.